Il tempo è bello e soleggiato! It was refreshing to wake up on Thursday morning and see that the weather was finally going to be pleasant! No piove, thank god! All of our church excursions this week must have finally earned us some points with the man (or who ever you think controls the weather). Taking full advantage of the beautiful weather, I got up and out of bed for a run. I ran up to the Villa Borghese, which is phenomenal in comparison to the somewhat dangerous streets of Rome and a nice break from the monotony of running along the post-apocalyptic looking Tiber pathway. The run was beautiful and I wished I could have stayed at Villa Borghese longer, but, alas, it was time for Italiano class, and who doesn’t love seeing Paola? Uh huh huhhh!
Simply put, Italian class today was amazing. It all started with a role-playing-twenty-questions-like game. Paola made us flash cards with names of famous people from all around the world, alive and dead. The rest of the class had to guess which person we were by asking simple yes/no questions in Italian. For example, I was given the card of Madonna. My classmates would ask questions, such as “É una donna? Lei è americano? Lei è un'attrice? Se si hanno i capelli biondi? Ecc..” My person was fairly easy, as Lia guessed it within the first five questions. However, Julia and Cami had un persone molto misteriosa. After several rounds of questions, Bryan astutely figured it out: the girls were Maximus, Russell Crowe’s character from the movie Gladiator.
After the game, it was time for us to venture out into the real world and practice our Italian with Italians. Gasp! Our class broke up into groups: The first group went to un bar; the second group went to il Forno; and the third group went to the mercato in the Ciampo di Fiori. In each of the respective places, we had to order items in Italiano. For example, “Posso avere un cornetto, per favore.” In the bar, we ordered the usual: caffe latte, cappuccino, etc. The foam designs were quite elaborate, almost making you not want to drink your latte in fear that you would ruin the barista’s artwork.
In the Forno, a popular item was the castagnole. Castagnole, a Venetian Carnivale tradition, are little fried pieces of heaven dipped in sugar. Hands down, they are much better than any donut hole I’ve ever tried back in the States. Although, supposedly Castagnole are made from a simple sweet bread dough recipe, I think crack must be one of the primary ingredients. They’re damn addicting! I might have to enroll in Castanole Anonymous upon my return to the States. Is anyone up for sponsoring me? In the market, students ordered fruits and vegetables. Upon return to class, we buckled down and learned more about –ere, -ire, and –are verbs. During a listening comprehension exercise, a friendly squabble broke out among Bryan and Carly, which resulted in a head rub from Paola. And, I’ve never seen anyone’s face quite as red as Bryan’s was afterwards. Later that afternoon, we attended Mary’s class. In preparation for our departure to Florence, we continued to learn about Italian city states and the rise of the Medici.
After class, Nicolette, Julia and I set out to experience saldi shopping. We walked along the Via del Corso and many of the side streets. Saldi shopping was intimidating, exhausting and fun all at the same time. The people shopping were definitely a different crowd than the ones I normally encounter in my morning runs and during my walk from my apartment to the Rome center. In the midst of our shopping, we stopped at the Spanish Steps. With the backdrop of the moon and the stars, the Roman vista we saw was absolutely breathtaking. Although, Nicolette was the only member of our party to actually buy something, I felt like I experienced the Saldi scene. After resting up a bit, the three of us ventured out to a bar vicino a Coliseum. Paola would be proud: we tried our best at conversing with our neighbors in Italian.
The weather today was beautiful, which was surely a nice change of pace for all of us. The day began with Heather's presentation on street shrines or, more specifically, Madonella. Street shrines had various functions, which, oddly enough, included deterring crime and providing the lighting for Rome's streets until the 19th century. First and foremost, however, the street shrines acted as a form of propaganda for the Catholic Church. Heather’s presentation took us to a handful of different street shrines, including the two pictured here.The last street shrine, where the picture below was taken, was mounted on the wall opposite of the Church of Santa Maria della Pace.
Santa Maria della Pace, which is located a short walk away from Piazza Navona, is rarely open to the public, so when we saw that it was, in fact, open, we had no choice but to go in and explore.Built in the late 15th century, Santa Maria della Pace is a hidden gem.It is likely best known for its cloister, but it also boasts a beautiful interior which, when open, is worthy of exploration.The interior is covered with frescoes, including some done by Raphael in the early 16th century.
After we left Santa Maria della Pace, we walked a few blocks to one of Rome’s infamous “talking statues.”These talking statues were used in imperial times as anonymous forums where citizens could post their praise, critiques, or thoughts about the emperor without the worry of persecution.Even today, the talking statue was still covered with tattered pieces of paper—a good indication that these talking statues are still very much in use.
From this point in time, the group split into two smaller groups for exclusive tours of the Vatican Scavi.The tour took us through the necropolis underneath Saint Peter’s Basilica, where we were able to peer through a small slit into the grave site thought to be that of Saint Peter.The tour then continued on to the original Saint Peter’s Basilica—an ornately gilded and very beautiful chapel.We finished our tour at the tomb of Pope John Paul II, where a dozen or more visitors were praying.From there, we ascended a staircase into the strikingly beautiful and enormous interior of Saint Peter’s Basilica.After exploring the various sights inside the basilica, including Michelangelo’s Pieta, we then set off for home.
Today started off with another lesson of Italian with our kind and exuberant instructor, Paola, at the Italian Idea language school. The class is taught through immersion and everyone seems to enjoy our time learning the language of our surroundings. We have been able to apply the skills learned in the classroom to our everyday lives being here in Rome. Many people in the program, including myself, had little to no prior knowledge of Italian before arriving in Rome but this class has certainly benefited us during our time here. We now have the confidence to enter a cafe, supermarket, or bakery and successfully interact with the people there.
After taking in some lunch, everyone headed to the Rome Center for a history lecture. During this week, we will be spending time working our way up to the Renaissance before we journey to Florence next week. Today we covered the Black Plague, and its effects specifically on Italy. To aid our discussion, we discussed the introduction in our assigned reading, The Decameron, by Giovanni Boccaccio. The introduction gives a good summary of the perspective of people during this time period and their reactions to this devastating historic event.
Due to the lack of activity today, I would like to take this opportunity for people to get to know one of the people with the program, my roommate Bryan Chee. Bryan is a junior from Hawaii who has shown his love for cooking throughout this trip. At our apartment in Via Baccina, he has cooked several times for others in the program and done so very successfully. Our Italian instructor seems to enjoy his presesnce in class, as she calls him "bello," beautiful, whenever she takes attendence at the beginning of class. If you'd like to know more, feel free to comment on his blog and ask him a question. Note: This interview was done with the permission of Il Bello, Bryan Chee. The shoes below were purchased at the market by Bryan.
Roma Reporta - Matt Charlton Monday, January 26, 2009
The lineup for today's art history tour included three early Christian churches, including S. Maria Maggiore, S. Prassede, and S. Pudenziana. The day brought with it some fantastic Seattle weather – and the hordes of men selling umbrellas. Fortunately for us, we missed most of it as we were inside visiting the first church of S. Maria Maggiore.
This church was the first (or second depending on which church you support) that was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. A man had a dream that upon a hill in Rome it would snow, and there he was to lay the foundation of a church. Being that it was July, he did not know where this would take place. So away he went to ask the Pope for guidance. As it turns out, the Pope had the same dream, and they successfully located the hill on which the church now stands. Inside the church are intense mosaics and paintings, and the ceiling is guilded in gold. It is said that the very first of the gold from the New World went to the ceiling of this church. Unfortunately, the side naves were closed for cleaning. Above the entrance to the church is a relatively modern stained glass window. Towards the front of the church there is a four-pillared structure called a baldichino. It is extremely well-decorated, yet it obscures the view of the artistry above the central nave. Above this, however, is a picture of Jesus crowning Mary as the Mother of God, recognizing her as a holy entity after the Council of Ephesus. These structures were popularized by Bernini, who is actually buried inside of the church with but a simple marker noting his name.
Our second church was but a short walk away, and was the church of S. Prassede. This church differed from S. Maria Maggiore due to the style and quantity of its interior decoration. S. Prassede saved the artifacts from saints and martyrs known as relics – usually their bones – and moved them inside of this church. The inside was decorated with mosaics of a different style that was more Constantinian, as the faces and bodies are with colors and richness that were typically not used in previous artistic eras. The mosaics were created with glass tesserae that reflects light extremely well, adding life to the pieces.
Our final church was that of S. Pudenziana, which was formerly a bathhouse. It is now run by Filipino clergy. This church represents some of the evolution of early Christian art. For example, each of the Apostles (Matthew, Mark, Luke, John) are located in a huge mosaic in the central nave in their animal forms. Below them is Jesus, who is centrally located and is reminiscent of images of Roman emperors. He is larger in size than all other figures, and is sitting above them in the image. He is also symmetrical. In the background are identifiable buildings signifying the two cities most important in Christianity: Jerusalem and Rome.